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Grapes go Green

I am a planner by nature. I wrote a list of subjects I would write about for the next few months. Organic wine was next on my list. Now that sounded easy enough. I use as many organic products as possible and I even drink organic wine. I already knew that organic wine is made from grapes that have been grown without the use of pesticides, herbicides, fungicides or chemical fertilizers. It seemed like a natural topic to choose.

I dropped by Stones River Total Beverages near my house on Thompson Lane. Charlie Patel showed me the nice variety of domestic and a few non-domestic organic wines available. Next, I had a telephone appointment with a childhood friend who has been in the wine, beverage and liquor business for over 20 years to discuss organic wine. Again, how easy that would be. Whoa, not so fast! When I talked with my friend, I found out the complexities, intricacies and nuances growing organic grapes that become the wonderful organic wines we purchase. Had I opened up Pandora’s Box? How could I make a complex topic easy to understand? I finally narrowed down this complex topic into two basic facts. First, organic wine does not take a backseat to non-organic wines in taste, appearance, packaging and price. Secondly, organic farming improves the health of the soil, environment, and does everything possible to assure that the eco-system is not disturbed. Organic farmers respect nature and the earth.

There are three terms that are commonly used when referring to organic wine: terroir, biodynamic, and sustainability. Terroir (ter-war), a French term, describes the characteristics and basic concept of an organic vineyard. Straight from the encyclopedia, terroir was used to denote the special characteristics that geography bestowed upon them. Loosely translated as “a sense of place.” In wine growing, terroir is a group of vineyards or even vines from the same region belonging to a specific appellation, and sharing the same type of weather conditions, soil, grapes and wine making practices. All contribute to give its specific personality to the wine. The definition can include:

? Soil type?Is the soil barren or rich in nutrients? Does it have chalk or clay?

? Geology?Is the land steep or shallow? Does it have good or poor drainage?

? Management practices?This refers to practices including fertilization techniques, pruning, space of vines, and harvesting techniques

? Wine making practices?This refers to practices including length of fermentation, temperature of fermentation blending choices, filtering, and length of aging

? Aspect of the sun?How do plants get sun? Is it due to the slope of the site? In what direction do the grapevines face?

? Human history of the land?Considerations include who has owned the land, length of ownership and how long has the land been cultivated.

? Mesoclimate?This refers to the climate of a small area even the climate of a particular vineyard.

The definition of terroir is a very argued term when discussing organic wine. So much depends on where and who the definition originates. But for sure, terroir is part of organic wine discussions.

A biodynamic product is also considered organic. Biodynamic farms are like an organic farm using no pesticides, herbicides and use particular agricultural methods that include compost preparation and following astrological cycles to determine times of planting and harvesting. Biodynamic farmers see the farm as a whole self-nourishing closed system. It treats a farm or vineyard like a living organism and even seeks a spiritual connection with the land. Biodynamic vintners believe their approach creates wine that is the total and authentic expression of a particular site. The Demeter Association is the worldwide organization that certifies biodynamic products.

The term and practices of sustainability have the goal of the best outcomes for natural and human environments now and into the future. Sustainability attempts to provide the needs of the present without compromising the ability of the needs for future generations. Sustainability farming practices reject the use of synthetic soil nutrients, pesticides and support agricultural communities that refuse to pollute soil and water supplies. The focus is on prevention when monitoring crops, pest control, maintaining vine strength, increasing microbial activity in the soil, and growing weed fighting and flowering plants that attract birds and insects that consume unwanted predators.

An organic wine-producing farm is not postcard picture perfect. You can see bees, birds, bugs, farm animals, bats, birds of prey and cover plants like clover, oats and mustard. Cover plants choke out weeds, reducing the need for herbicides and provide a habitat for beneficial insects such as ladybugs and spiders that eat pests, reducing the need for pesticides. Bees get sustenance from clover and birds eat unwanted insects, and bugs. Even birds of prey like hawks, owls and kestrels, eat mice, gophers and voles. These pesky critters feed on young grapevines. Bats, voracious insect eaters, are active at night like the owls. They take over when other birds are not active. The favorite food of bats is moths.

The use of sulfites is a heavily debated subject within the organic wine making world. Sulfites do occur naturally in wine making. While some organic vintners frown on the use of sulfites completely, others favor their use in extremely small quantities. Sulfites help stabilize wines and control bacteria growth. In the United States, wines labeled organic cannot contain added sulfites. Wines labeled “wine made from organic grapes” have added sulfites but are otherwise organic.

At the winery, wine-making techniques should also be organic with little or no manipulation of wines by excess filtration, reverse osmosis or added flavors. Wild yeasts for fermentation is preferred by many organic wine makers. When a wine label says organic, it means the wine has met certain standards set by a government agency. In the United States, there are no national standards. There are however, some regional and local certification agencies. In 2002, the U.S. Department of Agriculture, established the National Organic Program with standards for labeling organic food and beverages. A vineyard would be inspected by this program only after three years without synthetic chemicals and with proper detailed records. Since different countries have their own certification criteria, what is organic in one country may not considered organic in another. As in any industry that is in its infancy, there are still bridges to connect.

Organic farming has incredible diverse environments creating a natural balance where all elements thrive including the soil, plants, animals, insects, and birds. The farms practices include composting, cover crops and natural cycles that create a soil that is vital. From this fertile soil grow naturally healthy vines and intensely flavorful nutrient rich grapes. Organic farming is also beneficial for people who work the vineyards. Practicing low-chemical farming assure that employees are safer on the job.

Even if you are not an oenophile, you can begin enjoying and acquainting yourself with organic wines. By drinking organic wine you join the growing numbers who buy organic wine for health, quality purity, and some just like the taste of the wines. Remember you don’t compromise anything buying organic wine. And while you drink organic wines, you are respecting the earth and doing your part to insure a better world for future generations.

Organic Wines

Bonterra (U.S.)?Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Viognier

Badger Mountain (U.S.)?Merlot and Reisling

Our Daily Red (U.S.)?Red Mix/Blend

Jean Bousquet (Argentina)?Malbec

Natura (Chile)?Chardonnay, Cabernet, Sauvignon Blanc and Carmenbere

Organic Wines available at Stones River Total Beverages range in price from $10 to $19.99

Daisy Villa is a resident of Murfreesboro

who teaches yoga at State Farm Insurance in Murfreesboro, Genesis Healing Center in Lascassas and gives private and group lessons. prbiz48@aol.com

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