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Ask the Style Expert

When I worked in the image, beauty and style industry with my sister, Helen Villa Connor, I noticed the change in people when they felt good about themselves as a result of looking their best.

Positive feelings that emerged were more confidence, self-worth and a general feeling of well being.

Helen Villa Connor is a personal design and wardrobe consultant, speaker, teacher, originator of the Body’s Design Pattern paradigm, and co-author of ’The Triumph of Individual Style.’

As summer approaches, people are baring more skin, and swimsuit season is almost here. I felt that answering some frequently-asked style questions would be beneficial.

What is the most important factor in choosing a garment?

Helen: Perfect fit. Good fit means that clothes skim the body with ease and that all the details such as seams, lapels, waistbands and pockets lie flat and fall where they are designed to hit your body. This means passing up anything that is too small, too short, too tight, too big, too bulky or too long, regardless of how attractive the garment looks on the hanger.

When trying on a garment, look for unsightly pulls and puckers, gaps and lumps, droopiness and bagginess in the key areas of shoulders, bust, waist, derriere, crotch, arms and legs. Consider if tailoring the flaws can make the piece right for you. If not, move on and remember: for figure flattery, perfect fit is first and foremost, regardless of body type.

Explain your concept of individual style.

Helen: When choosing what to try on, ideally you should already know by instinct or discovery what fabrics suit your body, what is your best silhouette shape and how to combine wardrobe pieces in good proportion within that silhouette. With these in mind, deciding what styles work for your unique body becomes easier in the process of ’designing’ your wardrobe. Precisely because each woman has what I call a unique Body Design Pattern of line, shape, proportion, body particulars, scale, color (skin/hair/eyes), and texture (hair/skin), all written advice are just guidelines, not definitive rules. Do remember: once you find something that works for your body’s design, own it, even wear it often to create a signature style.

Using a large bosom as an example of a body type, what styles of jackets and tops are most flattering for a large bosom?

Helen: Any feature can be camouflaged or highlighted depending on your comfort zone and purpose. For everyday flattery for a full bosom, show your curves without overemphasizing them. Wear a bra that lifts, supports and fits comfortably beneath the following styles and details:

* Fitted or semi-fitted tops and jackets with contour seaming and bust darts

* Fine-textured, non-bulky fabrics that drape well.

* Avoid anything that adds bulk around the neck and short sleeves that are gathered or flared.

* The vertical and diagonal lines on a slim or moderate size lapel on a jacket or a surplice neckline in a blouse will draw the eye away from the width of the bosom.

* Anything that adds a vertical or steep diagonal line above the waist (to break up the large space) and/or an eye-catching detail below the waist (to draw the eye away from the bosom).

What tips do you have when selecting bathing suits?

Helen: Because you are practically baring all, choosing a flattering bathing suit especially calls for good fit and strategic use of color, fabric, pattern and detailing, in order to draw attention where you want it and divert it from where you don’t.

* Fit: If a suit cuts into flesh creating bulges, try one size larger. A high lycra content will help hold shape. Matte fabrics are the most slimming.

* Color: Wearing your natural colors of hair, skintones and eyes is always a good strategy. For example, if your hair color is dark, match it in the suit or the background of a print, and even down to your footwear, to create an overall elongated look. Use dark colors on places you’d like to slenderize and brighter and lighter colors on areas you want to highlight.

* Pattern: Avoid big prints. Use a print to draw attention away from your problem area. For example, a print top paired with a matching solid bottom can divert attention from hips and thighs.

* Amply-curved body: Try a wrap style with all-over pattern that defuses attention from any one area. Prints with darker background are usually more slimming.

* Small bust: Try a bra-top style with underwire. Bright colors and details such as bows, shirring and light padding add dimension. Otherwise, soft-styled string bikinis look great.

* Full bust: Look for built-in support such as underwire, wider straps, and high lycra content in a dark-colored top.

* Tummy: Diagonal lines or color block can help break up the space of a large tummy. Try a tankini with a higher-waisted, high-lycra content bottom with a high-cut leg.

* Legs: To visually elongate legs, choose the highest-cut leg that your tummy, derri’re and comfort zone permit.

Have more questions? You can e-mail Helen at hvconnor@astreet.com and view her Web site at designforeach.com.

Daisy Villa is a yoga teacher, Reiki practitioner and Youth Juice Business Owner.

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