When European explorers first ventured into the southeastern portion of what is today the United States they were astounded at the bountiful flora and fauna.
The trees were laden with thick berries, copper and black. These berries, called Ascopo by the native Algonquians and anglicized to scuppernong (and the scientific Vitis rotundifolia), possessed a musky aroma similar to the Muscat grape of France.
500 years later the South still remains the home of the muscadine grape which thrives in the warm humid climate. Commercial products of the muscadine grape include wines, jams, and nutritional supplements, all of which are primarily produced in the Southeastern U.S.
Recent scientific analysis of this grape shows that it possesses high levels of reservatol, an anti-fungal substance produced by a number of plants. Reservatol has been under recent scientific investigation as an anti-cancer, anti-aging, anti-inflammatory compound. The levels of reservatol found in the skins and seeds of this grape and the cabernet sauvignon grape have also been noted for lowering bad cholesterol and the risk of coronary heart disease.
Clarksville’s Beachaven winery produces two varieties of muscadine desert wine, the Barrister’s Red and Barrister’s White.
Beachaven Barrister’s White Muscadine 2004
3 Pulses
The Barrister’s White Muscadine 2004 (found at CNG Wine & Spirits for $12.99), shines like gold and packs loads of upfront sweetness. Highly perfumed with scents of musk on the nose, this scuppernong sipping wine packs full-force flavors of fresh apple and pineapple followed by a nice acidity and lingering taste of tropical fruits. Overall, an above-average and decadently sweet wine.
Beachaven Barrister’s Red Muscadine 2005
2 Pulses
Made from the darker skinned muscadine grapes, Barrister’s Red Muscadine 2005 ($14.99 at CNG), promises itself as a “red wine for the white muscadine fan.”
Smells of cherries and tropical fruits create the bouquet which is unpleasantly tinged by a very strong fresh asphalt smell. If you can make it past the tar smell, the wine really tastes lovely. Lots of initial sweetness precedes roasted cherries, peaches, pomegranates and Granny Smith apples. With a light sweet-tart finish and mouth coating tannins, this is a pleasant ruby colored wine that’s worth a try but a little overpriced.
Stonehaus Muscadine
4 Pulses
Crossville’s Stonehaus winery produces a popular take on the muscadine dessert wine. Colored a pale straw yellow with some green undertones, this wine is best enjoyed cold, outdoors on a hot day. The bouquet resounds with apple, pineapple and earthy walnut aromas. On the palate, lavish baked apple sweetness is followed by a pleasant acidity. Although very sweet, this is a well-balanced wine that oenophiles and sweet tea drinkers alike can enjoy for a moderate price ($10.99 at CNG).
