I started a vegetable garden out of curiosity in the spring of my sophomore year in high school, just after the plant chapter we studied in biology class. I had soaked my seeds in water to get a head start on sprouting, part of my theory to get the plants growing faster. I can assume that Miracle-Gro would have been involved, as I wanted bigger and better, and as soon as possible. Nutritional value and chemical residue would not have been part of my measurements or my analysis. It was not even a thought or a consideration. I would do whatever was needed to get more growth as quickly as possible. I subscribed to the theory that if a little is good, then more is fabulous.

Enter advanced thinking, which in my case, comes more from experience than education or age. The results of the practical side of the food chain have hit home. With my experience, I now know that more is not always better. True enough with ice cream as well as chemical application to assist in food production.

Mitchell Mote is the extension agent in Rutherford County who often gives classes on measuring, with the aim of using the right amount. In his role at the Ag Center, the right amount applies to fertilizers, weed control applications and the calibrations of tools for correct measurements in those applications. The class on calibrating the tools made my brain hurt, but I did take away the importance of correct measuring. Have an accurate assessment of the ground being covered and measure appropriately for that space.

How can you help your plants thrive? Quick, two-verb answer: weed and feed.

Get a soil test done. It is a necessary tool in determining what changes to make to your soil chemical properties. Buy fertilizer that is appropriate for your situation. One of the most commonly sold fertilizers is 10-10-10, a one-size-fits-all general application. What does that mean? Equal amounts of the supplements nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium are contained in that bag. Each has a minimum of a 10-percent-guaranteed analysis of the constituency of the bag contents. The secondary and trace elements in a fertilizer blend are often listed on the back of the bag.

Nitrogen (N), phosphorous (P) and potassium (K) are the primary nutrients needed in quantity for a plant to succeed. The lack of any of them typically results in a noticeably undernourished plant. Nitrogen is part of the plant DNA and helps in photosynthesis. It promotes green, leafy growth. Phosphorous is the second number listed as a percentage of a fertilizer. Phosphorous is associated with carbohydrate storage in roots, tubers and bulbs and affects flowers and fruiting. The third element, potassium, aids in plant metabolism, its resistance to disease and seasonal hardiness.

A good soil system also provides the secondary tier of calcium (Ca), magnesium (Mg) and sulphur (S). This secondary tier is not growth-determining. Calcium and magnesium are added through lime application. Sulphur arrives in rainfall.

Zinc (Zn), chlorine (Cl), boron (B), molybdenum (Mo), copper (Cu), iron (Fe), manganese (Mn), cobalt (Co) and nickel (Ni) are the third level of nutrients in the soil. They are called micronutrients because they are found in very small amounts. For the most part, supplemental application of micronutrients creates undesirable effects, according to UT Extension Pub 1637. I will say, though, that plants can have nutritional deficiencies, just like other living organisms.

In my opinion, no matter what the status of your crop or vegetables, you will have a healthy growth of unwanted plants, a.k.a. weeds—arggh, weeds, the challenge of any gardener. If you choose to use the quick, chemical fix for weed removal, be aware of the residue of the chemical used and what documented effects it has on the soil and anything grown in it. Be respectful and adhere to the guidelines of use and application. If it is recommended to keep it off your skin, recognize that the guidelines apply to you, too. Skin is a quick, proven transmitter to our internal systems.

So, what did the farmers do before this chemical warfare on weeds? Mechanical weed control is mowing, plowing, roto-tilling, hoeing and hand-pulling the unwanted plants. Mulching can keep weeds to a minimum. Newspapers or cardboard under the mulch adds to its longevity in weed control. You could choose to use clear polyethylene plastic sheeting (2 to 6 mils thick) to raise the soil temperature to levels lethal to many weed seeds. Most plastic sheeting is not biodegradable, however, which creates another problem.

Then, there is a stale seedbed technique. Timing is important on this one. From the UT publication Sp 291-1, I quote, “The stale seedbed technique is a system that controls weeds prior to the planting of the crop. The theory is that most weed seed that germinate are found in the top 2 to 3 inches of soil. With soil temperatures of 70 degrees F or higher and moist soil, most of the weed seed in the top 2 inches of the soil will germinate in 2 to 4 weeks after a tillage operation. Therefore, a generalized procedure follows. 1.) Broadcast fertilizer and incorporate with a final tillage. 2.) Allow the weed seed to germinate for 2 to 4 weeks. 3.) Once most of the weeds have germinated, kill the emerged weeds . . . by performing a shallow tillage (less than 2 inches). 4.) Then seed or transplant the crops with minimal soil disturbance.” Warm soils are needed for this technique to be effective, so use it for the planting of a fall garden.

Farmers’ Market Opens
The Farmers’ Market located at Lane Agri-Park Community Center, 315 John Rice Blvd. is held indoors and is open from 7 a.m. to noon on Tuesdays and Fridays. It is a producer-only market. On both days of the market, UT Extension offers free educational classes for local gardeners. Classes last about one hour and are given by professionals and Master Gardeners. A wide range of topics are offered. Many of the classes are recorded and can be viewed at the RC Farmers Market YouTube channel.

Classes for June:

June 5 – Concrete Garden Art
A demo on how to make your own garden art using leaves, by Deena Trimble, Certified Master Gardener.

June 8 – Dairy Days
Learn what impact the dairy industry has on you, and the impact you have on the dairy industry. Logan Hickerson, Extension Agent, will be the guest speaker.

June 12 – Killing Plants With Irrigation
Learn about the water needs of landscape plants from Mitchell Mote, Extension Agent.

June 15 – Cultural Arts
Continuing the tradition of crafts and heritage skills like hardanger, crochet, tatting, quilting and more, presented by Carla Bush, FCE Club Extension Agent.

June 19 – STEM
Fun and exciting hands-on activities to stimulate your brain (for ages 8 and up). Amy Willis, 4-H Extension Agent, will be the guest speaker.

June 22 – Rethink your Drink
Learn the importance of limiting added sugar and how to determine the amount of sugar in a beverage by reading the nutrition label and comparing the amount of sugar in various beverages. Lauren Louthan, Extension Program Assistant, will present this information.

June 26 – Seasonal Eating
Food demonstration to offer recipes and tips for selection and preparing our local, fresh foods, presented by Carla Bush, Extension Agent.

June 29 – Vermicomposting
Learn all about raising earthworms and their benefits in compost. Barbara Donnell, Certified Master Gardener will be the guest speaker.

July 3 – Fall Gardening
Learn about fall vegetable gardening from Richard Lee, Certified Master Gardener.