(Since this article was published in 2020, FatGuy has relocated to Lascassas; Gateway BBQ now operates within the Kwik Sak space at 904 NW Broad St.)
Many fans of smoked meats in Murfreesboro have discovered another contribution to the local barbecue scene at the Kwik Sak market at the corner of Broad Street and Medical Center Parkway, just across from Toot’s.
Here, Ray Clark works his smoker out back, preparing ribs, pork, brisket, wings and even some specials like smoked spaghetti, meatloaf or whole chickens and turkeys.
At first glance inside the store, the interior looks like a standard gas station. But then a customer notices a variety of guitars, ukuleles, harmonicas, kazoos and other musical instruments for sale throughout the shop, and perhaps a line of customers placing or awaiting orders at the small restaurant counter. Step right up and place an order.
The restaurant component of the business, known as FatGuy Barbecue, offers some deliciously smoky ribs. Observe a fine smoke ring on these meaty sticks of goodness. The meat is not quite cooked to the point of being “fall off the bone” mush. The rib meat requires just a little bit of a tug with the teeth to tear it off of the bone, just as it should, according to many competitive barbecue judges.
A very flavorful smoked sausage is another of the FatGuy options, and the Cowboy Nachos load a bed of tortilla chips with chopped brisket or pork, cheese, lettuce, sour cream and baked beans.
“The brisket is so good!” Shelley Justiss said. “Ray is a genuinely nice guy and his business is a wonderful addition to the community.”
Word has begun to spread on FatGuy, what many locals call “a hidden gem,” and the positive comments on the food, and the staff, are piling up.
“Do not let the fact that it is attached to a gas station turn you off. This is some of the best barbecue I’ve ever had. Every meat my husband and I tried was juicy, beautifully flavored and perfect,” according to another FatGuy customer, Leigh. “The collard greens and cornbread were also incredible.”
Sarah Oakley said the ribs and brisket were some of the best around, and the baked beans and mac and cheese were a huge hit.
The smoked wings “are out of this world,” according to Lib Nichols.
“Support your local small businesses,” Nichols said.
In addition to the basics, FatGuy serves up some daily specials as well: smoked meatloaf on Mondays, barbecue-stuffed potatoes on Tuesdays, smoked spaghetti on Wednesdays, whole chickens on Thursdays and a special Cajun fish on Fridays, cajun rice and beans, peppers and onions topped with fried catfish and tartar sauce.
“It’s primo,” FatGuy manager Zeke Yanez says of the Friday fish dish. Clark recruited Yanez, who formerly owned and operated the Murfreesboro Pizza Inn, to help take FatGuy to the next level.
FatGuy opens for breakfast at 7 a.m. and breakfast items include chorizo and egg tacos, biscuits and gravy and biscuits with an option of pork tenderloin, brisket, smoked ham or sausage, egg and cheese, available before 10 a.m.
“Man, what a great place,” Jonte Gaines says. “Zeke and Ray have done an awesome job creating and working their dream! From the breakfast biscuits to the steak sandwich, this is a classic joint that this city has been missing.”
The side selections don’t get too fancy, but the establishment has the barbecue house standards of baked beans (loaded with bits of meat), slaw, mac and cheese and a tangy potato salad, along with some other occasional off-the-menu selections such as turnip greens and mashed potatoes.
In fact, FatGuy doesn’t appear to be doing anything extraordinarily revolutionary with the meats, it’s simply barbecue smoked right.
“Tender. Flavorful. Simple. No new fusion flavors or anyone trying to reinvent the wheel,” according to another patron, Miriam, after she enjoyed a brisket sandwich.
Food aside, Clark and his staff have earned a wealth of positive comments for their friendliness and going out of their way to get to know customers, operating under the slogan “come in as a customer—leave as a friend!”
“The slogan is true,” Chris Green says. “It’s like the old sitcom, Cheers, but Southern style! This is a place where you can let your guard down, relax and have a great conversation with a stranger over great food.”
Another local customer, Joe, said he appreciated that the FatGuy team will offer a few samples for those struggling with what to order.
“Ray and his daughter, Leslie, are extremely friendly and accommodating,” Joe said. “Leslie is running around the store working on something and she provides me a sample of Cuban beef picadillo. This was incredible! I am a huge fan of Cubano foods, and this small dish was so darn good that along with a pint of beans, I also took a pint of the beef picadillo to go.”
Joe also spoke highly of the banana pudding.
“This is a solid banana pudding, thick, rich, creamy and not overly sweet.”
Now some may have a fierce loyalty to their preferred barbecue joint or pitmaster, and prefer ribs wet, or more tender, perhaps, their brisket a little more fatty, or barbecue pork more greasy and moist, but those who enjoy smoked meat and unique small businesses in Murfreesboro have a great spot to put on their rotation with FatGuy Barbecue.
“Fantastic food and the owner is a great guy,” Chuck Ward says. “Please give it a try.”
Where else in Rutherford County can a customer order ribs or brisket with a guitar and some cigarettes on the side?
FatGuy Barbecue
904 NW Broad St.
Mon.–Sat.: 7 a.m.–6 p.m.
615-318-6602
Brisket sandwich: $5; Smoked meatloaf with two sides: $10; Pound of pork: $12; Fried catfish with cajun rice and beans (Friday only): $9; Chorizo and egg taco: $3; Banana pudding: $2; Full rack of ribs: $15
facebook.com/fatguybarbecue
